Surprise visit from Tim and we're legal

We were doing a reasonable job at settling back into a routine after the excitement of our trip to KwaZulu-Natal. We even managed to get back to playing a couple of games of tennis. The holiday did no favours for my fitness and it was good to work up a sweat again. In the middle of the week we heard that Tim was going to visit. He was out in Botswana for work, but couldn’t get back because of the volcano. So instead of a quiet weekend in Maseru... Tim came to stay!! We went out in town on Friday. We had to attend Sesotho lessons... it had been four weeks since our last class! On Saturday morning we awoke with minor hangovers to an overcast sky. Despite this we were out of the house before 9 o’clock and on the way to Semonkong. Yes, Kit had recently been there, but was happy to show her bro and hubby! The drive was special... the majority of the journey visibility was a mere few feet due to the low lying clouds. We arrived lunch, and whilst we tucked in holes appeared in the clouds. With our bellies full, we set out on the stroll to the majestic Maletsunyane falls. It is the highest waterfall in southern Africa and quite a spectacle. We were able to lounge around in the sun and take in the views until quite late in the afternoon. We headed back before sunset and as the sun disappeared the temperature started to drop. By the time we showered and got ready for dinner, it was quite nippy indeed. Fortunately there was a crackling fire welcoming us in the dining room-cum-bar. We had a truly gorgeous meal (the best I have had out in Lesotho), played a little pool and returned to the room before lights out at 10 o’clock. Unfortunately we didn’t get a room with an open fire... the lodge was fully booked, so we had to make do with an electric heater in our room. This was quite adequate, until the electricity went off. We all slept under two blankets and two duvets. The frost on the grass and cars in the morning was visual evidence of the bitter cold of the night. The important thing is we survived and the morning was glorious... not as cloud in the sky. We had a very different drive back, with numerous stops for photographs of super views. I am really trying not to get overly accustomed to them! Tim unfortunately headed off to Jo’burg on Sunday afternoon. The weekend ended with a little soiree at ours with the Welsh teachers. Not what we were expecting but a wonderful weekend and a terrific surprise to see Tim!

I’m sure you will not find my other bit of news as exciting as me, but I’m going to tell you anyway! Kit and I are finally living and working in Maseru legally! We will have been here three months this weekend. It has taken that long with innumerate visits to various ministerial departments to get multiple documents which in turn needed to be copied, certified and taken to other departments. Last week I got my work permit and today we got our temporary residents permit! I have kept note of all the steps involved. If anyone plans to come and work in Lesotho get in touch first and hopefully your experience of the bureaucracy will not be as detailed as mine!

Kit has started work... I’m sure she’ll tell you all about it. I am still waiting for my research to get started, but the grant cheque has arrived. Crazily we’re turning our minds to our trip back to the UK next month. This year is really flying past... hopefully not too fast.

Our trip to KwaZulu-Natal

DAY 1 – THE ROAD TO SANI PASS

Whilst the girls were away in Semonkong, I enjoyed some food poisoning and two days at work. They returned on Thursday, we had a relaxed evening with a trip up to our favourite spot for sunset over Maseru. We then prepared for our big trip together. Friday morning, we left after rush hour and headed north and subsequently east into the mountains. We passed Afriski (where in the winter you can indeed ski), a huge diamond mine and climbed over the highest road pass in Southern Africa on to the South African border at Sani Pass. Needless to say the journey was spectacular with great views of massive mountains and stunning valleys. We stopped for lunch over 3000 metres, where we had to hide away from the crisp winds. To our surprise (and especially Kate’s) we were not alone in this remote spot. There were herd boys with their sheep and goats wandering the mountain sides who came up to us out of curiosity no doubt. After the last bit of civilisation on our trip, Mokhotlong, the road crept up beside a river to the Sani Pass. We were in a bit of a rush as we knew the border crossing closed but had conflicting information on when. The nearer we seemed to get to the border the worst the road got. Despite this we made it in time to the Lesotho border and got our stamps. We still felt in a rush to get to the South African border post, so regretfully didn’t stop for a drink at the highest pub in Africa. We were stopped in our tracks by a most amazingly poor road and the most spectacular view of the Drakensberg Mountains. Neither words nor the photographs can really capture the scene. The road was amazingly steep and the views of the lush green valley ahead seemed to stretch on for miles. After an hour of crawling down the numerous hairpin bends we were officially in South Africa. We had a short drive to our first nights stay at the Himeville Arms. We were able to reflect on our day with a beer and a lovely supper before retiring for a well earned rest.

DAY 2 – DURBAN AND THE DOLPHIN COAST

The second day of our trip started with a visit to a garage as Jeepy had taken a bit of battering and was in need of some attention. After fuel, air and water we then set off to Durban in the fog. For most of our journey down we could barely see 50 feet in front of the car. Nonetheless the music and singing kept us entertained. Durban is a massive metropolis. We managed to not get lost, and experienced a little of the diversity of the city as we drove around. We spent an hour getting Jeepy fitted with a new set of tyres. After I recovered from the bill, we headed up into the Berea area of the city for lunch and a spot of shopping. We had a leisurely drive up the coast to our next stop Sheffield Beach. We uncovered that we only narrowly avoided the Benidorm of South Africa which was just round the corner. Our B&B, however, was a quaint little place run by a British couple who have been in Africa many years after actually meeting in Maseru! We had views down to the sea and in the morning, I was able to watch the sun rise and Kit spotted a pod of dolphins playing offshore. We had a stroll along the beach before a lovely breakfast set us up for the next leg of the journey.

DAY 3 – THE ELEPHANT COAST

A mornings drive brought us to St Lucia, a very small tourist town located on the southern border of the Isimangaliso Wetland Park. It was a gloriously hot day, and after letting ourselves in to our apartment we lazed by the swimming pool. We met up with the owner in the afternoon who gave us some excellent tips on what to do over the coming days. St Lucia is located between the sea and a lake which used to be a lagoon but is now cut off from the sea. The lake is home to hippos and crocs, so before the sun set we set off in the hope of finding some. A short drive from the lodge we came to the lakes edge where there was a pod of hippos relaxing within 50 metres of the shore. There was also a croc lazing on the opposite shore (fortunately). We all felt a little spoilt! I got an opportunity to polish my braai skills again that evening.

DAY 4 – HLUHLUWE IMFOLOZI PARK

This holiday was full of early rises, but none as early as on day 4. We were up and in the car by 5 am!! We had a short drive to the safari park where we had intended to spend the morning. The experience was “amazing” (by now this had become the word of the holiday). Having decided to opt for the much cheaper self drive option to explore the park we were a little anxious that we wouldn’t be able to spot the wildlife. We were far from disappointed, as we ended up seeing both black and white rhino, elephants, hyena, lions, giraffe, buffalo, and numerous boks all close up and personal. The highlight was almost certainly having a 50+ herd of elephants of all sizes pass in front of Jeepy. The quote of the day had to be when Kit mistook a big rock for an animal, and shouted out, “there’s a rhinosaur”! We got back to our apartment in the late afternoon and rested our eyes after 7 hours of scanning for beasts.

DAY 5 – ISIMANGALISO PARK, CAPE VIDAL AND LAKE CRUISE

A slightly less early start, but we were still off into the next park by 6:30 am for a morning of relaxing by the sea at Cape Vidal. Whilst the girls snorkelled and chilled on the beach, I went for a little adventure up the coast. I walked along the deserted beach, eventually spotting a lighthouse to which I clambered. This required a challenging crawl up through thick vegetation but was rewarded by lovely views of the beach and sea. I thought I would find an alternative way back. I was however reminded that I was in the middle of game reserve when I heard some noise in the bush. I then spotted big cat prints in the path so swiftly turned around and headed the same way back! I got back in time for the next braai of the trip. This was a rather challenging experience as there were numerous aggressive monkeys that wanted to share our meal. One of them managed to run off with a cob of corn, but after I got out a large stick they seemed to leave us alone. We returned to St Lucia after lunch to prepare for a cruise on the lake. For two hours prior to sundown, we coasted around the lake with a drunken captain. Despite his state of mind, he did manage to spot a large number of hippos along with fish eagles, crocodiles and herons. It was a lovely way to bring our days in St Lucia to a close.

DAY 6 – THE TRIP HOME

We had a mad 6 hour dash to drop Jess and Kate off on the coach at Harrismith. There were anxious moments waiting for the coach as it was an hour late and the ladies still had a significant journey to the airport. In the end it turns out that a volcano in Iceland has had a bigger impact on their journey home rather than the traffic in Jo’burg... how weird! I don’t think either of them expected a holiday in Paris on the way back! After a quick goodbye, Kit and I made our way back home with many memories of “amazing” times together.

We now have a weekend of relaxing before Kit starts work next week. The holiday is now truly over! I hope she still has time to do the washing and cooking!!!

The girls trip to Semonkong - "Amazing"

On the Tuesday morning, Kate, Jess and I set off for Semonkong which means “place of smoke”, named after of the smoke-like effect that the spray from the Maletsunyane Falls creates. This is the highest waterfall in Southern Africa and our aim for the trip. The 19 CDs of music mix that Jess and Kate had kindly made for the road trip kept us singing and entertained for the 4 hour journey into the centre of Lesotho. The tar roads gave out after 2 hours and the remainder of the journey was a bit like driving on the moon....but Jeepy could handle it.

On arriving at Semonkong lodge we were shown to our beautiful rondavel up on a hillside via a road that was by far the worst I’ve ever driven on. We were warned that the high-altitude walk up from the lodge to our room would take your puff away. The views were spectacular from our hillside and with pine forests and the Maletsunyane gorge in the distance. We could have been in the Alps or in the Canada Rockies. After a stroll before sunset we settled in the cosy bar for a meal and a game of pool with the locals (we lost).

The next morning we set off on our hike across the plateau to the Maletsunyane Falls. I was official map holder and reader but Jess soon took this role from me after I flatly refused to look at the map and took us immediately in the wrong direction where Kate nearly lost her shoe in the mud! The recent heavy rain had made the ground like a bog so there was lots of negotiating safe paths across the plains. Local villagers even offered their advice on where to cross the rivers...I think they took pity on us after seeing Kate almost covered head to toe in mud. As we rounded a corner we glimpsed a waterfall and all got excited. After much ooh-ing and aah-ring we walked a bit further only to discover that this was a tiny waterfall and the real deal was thundering down in a hidden corner of the gorge. What never ceases to amaze me is that at such spectacular sights there is not another soul around and this I think makes it more impressive.

The afternoon consisted of a pony trek in and around the village on Semonkong. It was great fun and slightly scary as our ponies would seem to be following instructions and then suddenly go off on a tangent so that our guide would have to chase and bring us back to order. After my pony nearly knocked down the big sign for ‘Semonkong’ we headed back to the safety of the lodge to get the functioning of our legs back over a cool beer by the river. It was fantastic few days in a remote spot of Lesotho with happy memories of farting donkeys, naughty ponies, amazing star-lit skies, falling asleep to a crackling fire and Kate probably becoming the most notorious mud-covered hiker to walk the plateau. Ready for our next adventure we headed back to Maseru with a slightly more muddy and creaky Jeepy than before.

Easter and our first UK visitors arrive

It has been a while since we last posted a blog... sorry but our social calendar has been very full for once!! I will take you back to before the Easter weekend. We travelled up to Pretoria to spend it with Elonah and Greg. One of the highlights of the weekend was a Good Friday trip to a nearby lion park. It was great to see the lions (and other animals) up close. The lions in particular seemed to have a peculiar fascination with Jeepy. They ignored all the other cars driving round, but got up and followed us. It made us feel rather special!! We also enjoyed the very long tongues of giraffes and the vicious eating techniques of ostrich!

Easter Saturday was a day of shopping. We had to load up on essential supplies like a printer, toiletries and halloumi that are not available in Lesotho. Easter Sunday was very enjoyable. After church we had breakfast and then were able to Skype with family around the globe. We chatted with Eileen, Duncan, Claire and Jack in Luton, and Gail, Molly and Fiona in Jordan at the same time. We also were able to catch up with the Bricknells. The children seemed to struggle to tear themselves away from Shrek, an uncle and aunty in South Africa speaking to them on a computer were obviously not as interesting. It was great to be part of family Easter celebrations thanks to technology. Easter Sunday ended with a braai in the rain.

The following day we headed to the airport to collect our first visitors from the UK, Jess and Kate. We had expected them the day before but fortunately checked the flight details and noticed the + 1. Kit’s excuse was that it was in French! After hugs and kisses we drove our guests to Maseru (via Wimpy!).