28 January 2011
A return to Tutume
26 January 2011
Day 13 & 14 - Okavango Delta
We had to catch a small flight into the delta as our camp was on an Island inaccessible by road. It was my first time in a small plane and I was a little anxious as not being the biggest fan of flying. Soon after take-off I relaxed as it was actually a very enjoyable experience. We seemed to skim just above the tree line and the view over the Chobe park and later the delta was brilliant and diverted me from my fears as I scanned the ground for animals.
The planes are a bit like taxi’s in the delta. Matt and I were dropped off on an airstrip in the middle of nowhere to wait for our next ‘lift’. An even smaller and older plane arrived to collect us. The pilot took one look at Matt’s height and recommended he try the co-pilot’s seat. After 10 minutes of folding his limbs into a very small space they gave up and Matt took a seat in the back. The pilot shuffled his seat forward to create some room and we were off again for another pick-up.
After 2 hours of flying we arrived at Pom Pom. A luxury camp with 9 tents. We met our fellow guests who were to be our safari buddies for the next 2 days. We formed a friendly group of 6 who got on well and had a fun time bumping around in the Jeep on our many Game Drives. Once at the camp everything was included and organised for us and it was so relaxing and enjoyable. We seemed to be forced to have nice snacks and drinks every few hours...pretty tough.
Our first afternoon took us on a game drive where we encountered aggressive bull elephants (when the Jeep stalled at least 6 times in the sand trying to make a hasty exit!) and a pride of lions with cubs who then attempted a kill of an antelope before our eyes. At a safe distance from these predators our guide then pulled off the road and set out a table with beers and yes, more snacks for a sundowner. How civilised.
After a night in the bush, with the hippos from the nearby pool tramping around our tent we were woken early for a trip in a traditional Mokoro boat. A bit like a small punt with a poler who guides and steers from behind. A very peaceful way to explore the waterways of the delta. Luckily no close encounters with hippos or crocodiles were had, only giraffes, water antelope and tiny frogs. Phew. The water was fairly low in the delta despite it being the rainy season. The flood waters were yet to come. We followed small channels in amidst the lily pads which our guide called hippo-highways and I realised these plant-free tracks were what I had seen from the air as looking like a network of blood vessels going to and from small islands.
The rest of our 2 night stay in the Delta was taken up with game drives and enforced siestas (again...pretty tough going). Our guide Shaku must have thought we were the most demanding group as we all eagerly wanted to see leopards and when he delivered not 1 but 4 leopards we were then demanding hyena and lions....which he also delivered. It was fantastic. It had been part of our trip I was looking forward to most and it met all my expectations. Perhaps we will return some day...once the bank balance has recovered!
Day 11 & 12 - Chobe & Vic Falls
Days 9 & 10 - Caprivi and onto Botswana
18 January 2011
Days 7 & 8 - Etosha
Days 5 & 6 - Swakopmund and the Skeleton Coast
13 January 2011
Day 4 - The Namib Desert - Sossusvlei & Sesriem
A fantastic trip so far but today was definitely a high-light for Matt and I. We woke at 5am and were at the Sossusvlei park gate for opening at 6am keen to catch the desert colours at sunrise. It was not a disappointment or a wasted effort as we drove the 90km to the roads-end, deeper and deeper into the desert dunes. At 85 km the tarred road gave out and a sign welcomed Jeepy (and other brave 4x4’s) to venture on further into the sand/road. Matt was in Jeep-heaven as we skated over the sand to the final stop – Deadvlei, an area of immense dunes and dried up pans. It was breath-takingly beautiful and nothing like anything I had ever seen before. A bit how I would imagine the beginnings of the earth to look. Matt parked Jeepy under one of the few trees for shade...more like a twig really but anything was better than nothing as the temperatures were threatening to soar into the 40’s.
We set off with tripod and camera to a nearby towering dune. Matt ventured ahead, clambering up the side to reach the ridge. I was a bit tentative but soon discovered that the knack was to not be put off by the large landslide I was creating under my feet and to just keep going, and although it felt like I made no progress somehow I reached the top...very out of breath! The view was awesome, out across the pans and desert. MANY photos were taken and we spent a couple of hours just soaking it all up before heading back to the relative cool of our desert camp before we melted.
After a swim and rest we set off for an afternoon explore in the nearby Sesriem Canyon. Baboons were ready to greet us as we clambered down into the canyon depths before the heat got the better of us and we set off home. Matt was all up for pioneering new paths out of the gorge but I kept him on the straight and narrow much to his disappointment, voting for the man-made steps rather than negotiating the cliff faces in our flip-flops!
A final swim with a sundowner drink before a fun attempt at self-catering in our little outdoor kitchen...pasta alla tinned tomatoes. Yum?! Asleep by 9pm and ready for more adventures....
Day 3 of Namibia-Botswana trip
Day 2 of Namibia-Botswana trip
09 January 2011
My year at the QEII hospital
I’m sat on the futon in my cousin’s house in Pretoria and reflecting on my year working in internal medicine at QEII Hospital. We left Lesotho on Friday for the last time and I’m heading back to the UK and the NHS. What has the year meant? What have I been able to leave behind? Has it changed me as a physician? There year definitely had its ups and its downs, saying my farewells this week provided an opportunity for feedback, which was valuable.
Throughout my year, I was constantly worried that I was not going to have a lasting impact. The situation was so dire, with over one third of the admissions to the medical unit dying and so many reasons for this, I wanted to try and have some impact. This proved very difficult, because the majority of reasons for the high mortality are not in the departments control. This feeds a sense of futility and apathy amongst the staff, which makes what little change we can manage hard to achieve. I even noticed myself slipping into the mentality, so I can fully understand where it comes from. A few initiatives were taken, but they required so much energy to try and get off the ground, and then often this was not enough.
One of the nursing sisters said something very positive on my last day. She thanked me for the input I had had with her patients, said that she found my enthusiasm for the job was infectious and this had had a positive impact on her approach to her work. This is not something that I had been particularly aware of before, so it was really great to hear. So perhaps I will have left some sort of legacy in the hospital and amongst its staff.
What about the impact the year has had on me? I have gained a lot of experience in HIV and TB, which was one of my objectives. My colleagues on the ward used to joke that I could smell cryptococcal meningitis, which is a fungal infection HIV patients can suffer from! I was given a lot of responsibility and gained confidence in my decision making. I had to make diagnoses and feel confident about them, without the comfort of the tests I was used to in the UK. I have undertaken a study in to the microbiology of TB samples which hopefully will show some helpful and interesting results. Another study, into smoking in TB is ongoing. The staff at the TB clinic seemed enthusiastic to carry it on in my absence.
In summary I have really enjoyed the challenges of my year, and feel I have taken a lot from it. I may even see the benefits more clearly when I am back in the NHS. Unfortunately, I have not had as much opportunity to improve the service at the hospital as I may have hoped.
Hopefully the link between Wales and Lesotho in Health can grow stronger over the coming years, and will very much like to assist it where I can. The great unknown of the next year is what impact a new private-public partnership hospital is going to have on things when it opens in September. I would love to go back and see for myself one day!